carepage

~*~Lotsa Lops~*~

~Care Page~

Whether you have already purchased your pet rabbit or not, you will need to know some basic information on caring for your new addition to help you get started. Ideally, every good concerned rabbit seller will provide you with a basic care sheet. If you did not receive such from the seller of your bunny, and have found your way to this page, print this out for your reference then. On this page you will find such information that is important and commonly asked about by new owners. Hopefully, your decision to purchase your rabbit was not a spur-of-the-moment act. Researching and preparing before your purchase is something that you should do with any new pet.

~HOUSING~

You should have your new rabbit's home set up and waiting for him before your purchase. However, if you were not sure on what breed (size) of rabbit you wanted....your cage may not accomadate your bunny.

Factors to consider about placement of your rabbit's home are: Location, ventilation, temperature, lighting, and fly control.

Outside: Make sure you place your rabbits hutch in an area out of weather elements, predators, drafts & direct sunlight.

Inside: Bunny's cage needs to be kept away from windows, heating/air conditioning vents, fireplaces, etc. As well as drafts, direct sunlight, or high traffic areas.

Rabbits can be territorial. They do not like to share their cage, with other rabbits or with YOU! Each rabbit should have his/her own cage, and you will need to be cautious when reaching into your bunny's "territory" un-invited.

Planning on litter training your house rabbit? Be cautious of kitty litter with chemical granules which are poisonous to a bunny if he decides to nibble on it.

Small rabbits can live comfortably in a minimum cage size of 24" by 24"
Larger rabbits need a minimum cage of around 30" by 30"

~FEEDING~

A balanced pellet diet and fresh clean water daily is important for a healthy, happy life. Offering a grass hay daily or several times a week can aid in digestion and prevent fur blockage. Treats should be fed in moderation. Rule of thumb is too feed 1 ounce of pellets per pound of bunny weight.

Choose a pellet feed that is minimum of 16% Protein & 15% Fiber. Avoid feeds with excess fines.
Supply fresh clean water daily in a bowl or water bottle.
Make sure you find out which water device your new bunny is used to drinking from.

Rabbits can not regurgiate--feed carefully
Occasional, safe treats for rabbits over 6 months of age are: barley, oats, sunflower seeds, corn on the cob (in winter), carrots, celery tops, oranges, raisens, pear, peach, oatmeal (cookie pieces too), bread, fruit loops, shredded wheat, dandelion greens, and cheerios are a few I offer. Feed in small quantities-- only as much as can be consumed immediately. Treats fed too often can spoil a bunny from wanting to eat his pellets. Try offering treats at a seperate time rather than at his normal feeding time.

~HEALTH~

As with any animal kept in captivity, there are higher risks of contracting an illness. Although many diseases are unlikely to arise if animals are kept in comfortable, hygienic conditions and given a balanced diet.
There are no vaccines for rabbits, and annual vet check ups are at your preferance, they are not a requirement. True animal lovers know that to do right by them is a labor of love.

A rabbit will drink & not eat, but never eat and NOT drink. Extreme temperatures may make a rabbit eat less.

Some symptoms of an ill bunny that needs immediate attention:
Diarrhea, nasal discharge, loss of balance, loss of appetite, shaking/tilting of head, lack of movement, scratching at ears/scabs, dull/listless coat

Females (does) can be spayed at 5-6 months of age.
Males (bucks) can be neutured at 3 months of age.

Trim toenails when needed and periodically check teeth for proper wear.

~HANDLING~

By being able to properly hold, pick up and carry your rabbit, you can make her feel safe, happy and want to be handled.

Rabbits will kick/scratch because of fright when mishandled. Be sure to support his hindquarters of he will feel like he falling.

Turn a rabbit backward before pulling her from the cage. This will help to ensure that a toe or nail won't get caught & broken on the wire/door.

Never strike your rabbit on her head/face. It may instigate a challenge/duel! She may growl or charge back at you.

Don't hold hind feet together or grab at your rabbit from behind. This can put him in a instinctive state of being caught & try to flee.

Some rabbits do not like constant attention, you will have to learn your rabbits "signs/body language" when he is telling you he has had enough for today.

Newly purchased rabbits may take a few weeks to settle into their new home before beginning to seek your attention or form a bond with you.

Most rabbits do not like to get wet. Being self groomers, baths are not suggested for rabbits.

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