caging

~*Lotsa Lops*~

~CAGING & HOUSING~

~Caging~

The size of cage you will need depends on the actual size of the rabbit. The minimum I recommend for rabbits are:
Under 6 pounds: 24" x 24"
Over 6 pounds: 24" x 24-36"
Over 12 pounds: 30" x 30-36"
You want your rabbit to be able to move around comfortably and play safely in his cage.
Animal laws also specify that the minimum height of a cage be 14"

Wire floors are common in cages. It is not "inhumane" as some organizations will claim, for a rabbit to be on a wire floored cage. It actually allows for more sanitary conditions for your rabbit and easier maintenance of the cage. Trays that slide under the cage will collect the feces and urine and allows the rabbit to not have direct contact with his waste. An absorbant material such as wood (pine, not cedar) shavings, shredded newspaper, kitty litter or such should be added in the tray so that excess moisture can readily be absorbed. Letting the animal's waste sit or puddle will allow the ammonia levels to build up, which can lead to illness in your rabbit's respiratory tract.
Smooth galvanized wire of 16 gauge that is 1/2" by 1" works great for most animals to sit on comfortably.

Solid floors are used by many breeders for the larger breed animals. The heavy weighing rabbit can develop problems with his feet sitting directly on wire constantly. Bedded down with shavings, straw, hay, or other such material will aid in absorbing feces/urine. This will have to be cleaned out regularly for sanitation and good health. If left sitting in this soiled bedding, this too can cause physcial aliments or respiratory illness.

The third option most popular would be the all wire cage with a solid area or a sitting board for the animal to sit on and get off the wire when he wants to. Yet the wire flooring will still allow the urine/feces to fall through and collect in an easily removeable collection pan. Thus keeping the animal away from direct contact with his waste, but still comfortable in his cage.

Ideally, rabbits tend to be more toward a territorial nature. Wanting their own space (cage) to call their own. It is important that if you are to want to have a pair of rabbits live together, that you offer a large cage ideal to their size(s) to allow them to have their own "bedroom" when they want to be away from their partner. It is more ideal to have two seperate cages for each of them. Then, when you are home to supervise, the rabbits can be turned out together in a neutral area to interact with each other. I usually advise people to be aware that even though you have a "bonded" pair that have lived together fine in one cage, one day can decide that they no longer want to share and may begin to fight. It really does not matter if it is same sex, or litter mates that grew up together. It is just something that can happen as the individual rabbit grows/ages. Being prepared to have a second cage would be ideal or have access to purchase another quickly.

The location of the cage is just as important as the cage itself. Whether it's a single house bunny or a rabbitry of many, important factors to consider are:

VENTILATION--Inadequate ventilation can lead to respiratory diseases. The circulation of the air around the cage is important. Allowing fresh air to come in at the lowest part and to push the "stale" air to the highest point and out.

HUMIDITY--Rabbits can not tolerate high humidity without proper ventilation or air movement. Excess of sixty percent humidity will require extra care. Humidity will predispose animals to respiratory diseases.

LIGHTING--Lighting is important in priming the animal's fur as well as receptiveness to breeding. Rabbit's benefit from sunlight for Vitamin D.

TEMPERATURE--Rabbits do not tolerate high temperatures and high humidity combined. This potential deadly combination will lead to heat prostration. High temps alone can be tolerated with proper air movement. Avoid direct sun or drafts.

If you have a hutch for your bunny outside, make sure that it is placed in a well ventilated area out of wind/drafts, direct sunlight and stays dry and comfortable. Most important it is safe from predators like wild animals, or even dogs to get at.
Indoor cages need most of the same requirements. Kept away from heat sources like fireplaces or vents, drafts or windows, and high traffic areas.

Indoor rabbits that are offered free run of a room or the house, still need a cage to be kept in when you are not at home or unable to supervise him. Dog crates can be used since they are lower to the floor and easy for your bunny to get in and out freely. Placing a litter box in here is also an advantage. When you have to lock him up he will still have access to his litter pan. "Bunny Proofing" your house will also have to be done. Wires will need to be protected and/or kept out of bunny's reach.
A rabbits instincts are to chew and scratch/dig!!

~Housing~

[French Lops] ~ [English Lops] ~ [Mini Lops] ~ [Holland Lops] ~ [Velveteen Lops] ~ [Mini Rex] ~ [Others] ~ [For Sale]

[My Rabbitry] ~ [About the Rabbit] ~ [Care Page] ~ [Selecting Your Lop] ~ [Caging/Housing] ~ [Feeding/Nutrition] ~ [Rabbit ID]

Health/Disease] ~ [Breeding] ~ [Rabbit Language] ~ [Genetics] ~ [Links] ~ [Warranty] ~ [Shipping] ~ [Showing] ~ [Upcoming Shows]